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Eats

Restaurants, cafés, markets and late-night bars in Seoul — where I actually ate, with prices, hours and how to order.

Neighbourhood guides

Start here — one neighbourhood at a time, with prices, hours and what to order.

Sadang & Isu After Dark: Where Seoul Locals Eat at 1 AM

Eight places in one Seoul neighbourhood, five of them open past midnight. What each dish actually is, what it costs, and how late you can turn up.

All places

Macau – Suanlafen – Hot and Sour Noodles for Breakfast

Chongqing hot-and-sour noodles on the Macau Peninsula: five heat levels, a photo menu you can point at, and fried rice that steals the meal. Cash only.

Macau – Tin Fok – Taiwanese Teppanyaki, Not the Japanese Kind

Taiwanese teppanyaki five minutes from the old town: MOP 68 dumpling sets with soup that scalds, a photo menu in English, and about MOP 150 a head.

Sadang – Golmokjip – Grilled Hanwoo Gopchang, and Who It’s Not For

Grilled hanwoo beef offal two minutes from Sadang Station, with free unlimited soft tofu stew. Honest about who this is for - and who should skip it.

Isu/Sadang – Toriaez – Great-Value Binchotan Yakitori for Round Two

A great-value binchotan yakitori counter near Isu Station — my go-to second-round spot for charcoal skewers and fresh draft beer.

Baegun Lake – Chuncheon Samidae Mat – Cold Buckwheat Noodles (Makguksu) After a Morning Out

Cold buckwheat noodles in a clean, anchovy-kelp broth — a quiet, reliable stop a five-minute walk from Baegun Lake in Uiwang.

Gwacheon – Tongnamu-jip – Budae Jjigae Near Seoul, a Trusted 30-Year Spot

A 30-year budae jjigae spot near Gwacheon Station with a clean, light broth and an honest price — ask for jjolmyeon noodles.

Isu/Sadang – Apgujeong Dakgochi – Open-Air Chicken Skewers (Dakgochi) for a Round Two

A 20-year-old open-air skewer joint near Isu Station: soy-glazed dakgochi, cold beer, old Korean pop, and a nostalgic free snack.

Isu/Sadang – Hoshi Ramen – Tonkotsu Ramen That Hits After a Long Day

A tiny counter tonkotsu spot a 5-minute walk from Sadang Station, with two spice levels, free rice, and free side dishes for under 15,000 KRW.

Isu/Sadang – Yongyong Seonsaeng – The Malatang That Changed My Mind

A Hong Kong-style malatang hot pot near Isu Station with a deep, savory broth that ruined every other malatang for me.

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