Restaurants, cafés, markets and late-night bars in Seoul — where I actually ate, with prices, hours and how to order.
Start here — one neighbourhood at a time, with prices, hours and what to order.
Chongqing hot-and-sour noodles on the Macau Peninsula: five heat levels, a photo menu you can point at, and fried rice that steals the meal. Cash only.
Taiwanese teppanyaki five minutes from the old town: MOP 68 dumpling sets with soup that scalds, a photo menu in English, and about MOP 150 a head.
Grilled hanwoo beef offal two minutes from Sadang Station, with free unlimited soft tofu stew. Honest about who this is for - and who should skip it.
A great-value binchotan yakitori counter near Isu Station — my go-to second-round spot for charcoal skewers and fresh draft beer.
Cold buckwheat noodles in a clean, anchovy-kelp broth — a quiet, reliable stop a five-minute walk from Baegun Lake in Uiwang.
A 30-year budae jjigae spot near Gwacheon Station with a clean, light broth and an honest price — ask for jjolmyeon noodles.
A 20-year-old open-air skewer joint near Isu Station: soy-glazed dakgochi, cold beer, old Korean pop, and a nostalgic free snack.
A tiny counter tonkotsu spot a 5-minute walk from Sadang Station, with two spice levels, free rice, and free side dishes for under 15,000 KRW.
A Hong Kong-style malatang hot pot near Isu Station with a deep, savory broth that ruined every other malatang for me.