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Eats

Restaurants, cafés, markets and late-night bars in Seoul — where I actually ate, with prices, hours and how to order.

Neighbourhood guides

Start here — one neighbourhood at a time, with prices, hours and what to order.

Nine Places to Eat Around Sadang, Isu and Nearby Bangbae

These are places I return to near home: eight around Sadang and Isu, plus Saemgol in nearby Bangbae. Some work for dinner, others for a second stop. Use the dish…

All places

Suanlafen in Macau: Hot-and-Sour Noodles for Breakfast

We came to the peninsula branch near Metropark Hotel for breakfast. The shop was quiet that morning, and the hot-and-sour broth was gentler than I’d expected.

Tin Fok, Macau: Dumplings and Taiwanese Teppanyaki

Tin Fok was an easy dinner near our hotel on the Macau Peninsula. We could see the open griddle from our table, and the photo menu with English made ordering…

Golmokjip, Sadang: Gopchang and Soft Tofu Stew

This is a place for grilled beef offal, a lively room, and a pot of soft tofu stew. I return for the whole combination; the stew is one of the…

Toriaez, Isu: Skewers for a Second Stop

Toriaez is where I go for a few skewers after dinner. The small counter-facing space works for a drink alone or a second stop with one friend.

Chuncheon Samidae Mat: Makguksu After Baegun Lake

This was a good place to land after walking around Baegun Lake. The cold broth was what I wanted after a warm morning outside. Despite the name, the restaurant we…

Tongnamu-jip, Gwacheon: Budae Jjigae with Jjolmyeon

The thing I’d repeat here is the noodle choice: jjolmyeon instead of ramen. The chewy noodles held their bite in the lighter broth.

Apgujeong Dakgochi, Isu: Skewers at an Outdoor Table

The draw here was the outdoor table, an easy drink and old Korean pop playing in the background. I’d stop by after dinner rather than build a whole evening around…

Hoshi Ramen, Sadang: Tonkotsu and a Serious Spicy Option

This is the kind of place I want after a long day: a rich bowl of ramen, counter seating and a simple meal. I’ve tried the plain tonkotsu and the…

Yongyong Seonsaeng, Isu: Volcano Mala Hot Pot

My pick near Isu for a rich mala hot pot and a lively evening with friends. I keep coming back for the broth and the noodles at the end.

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